There is no adjustment possible on the hinge-to-body screws. Well, I suppose you could put shims between the lower hinge and the pillar to raise the door, but that's more work than doing it the right way.
If the car runs and drives, why not take the interior door panel off, and drive it to a shop that has an oxy-acetylene outfit, and a hand who knows how to use it? Heat the screwheads alone to red heat with a small tip, and let cool. I like to use the proper size Phillips head on a 3/8" drive flex handle. You can get a lot of torque that way. If you dip the tip of the Phillips bit in valve grinding compound, it greatly increases the grip, and reduces the tendency of the bit to "cam out" of the fastener. In fact, it can give you so much grip, that you can easily tear the head right off the screw. That's why you do the heat-cool cycle first. Avoid penetrating oil until after the heat-cool cycle has allowed you to "crack" the screws loose, then go for it. Use the torch flame on screws soaked with penetrating oil, and you will have a fire, which may damage your paint!
If you can see down inside the door, and the protruding ends of the screws are really encrusted with rust, just bite the bullet and go with the drilling option.
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